tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87896135218945631362024-03-13T12:35:05.608-07:00leyuhaAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comBlogger420125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-42901822887252918572014-11-07T08:22:00.000-08:002014-11-13T22:19:48.473-08:00Below 10 degrees? It must be Boot Time!The weather in England has finally noticed that it is November. After the warmest Halloween night on record, the temperature finally dropped so that our traditional 5th of November, Bonfire Night could be spent in scarves, gloves and hats.(In brief, Halloween or All Hallows Eve revolves around the theme of using humour and ridicule to confront the power of death, whilst Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-24910119286107219682014-10-31T17:09:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.444-08:00Shape matters!When we're teaching, students often ask how important the last is to the look of the finished shoe. Well the last and toe shape are a vital starting point, but in fact every decision that you make actually impacts on the final look of a shoe.James and I have been discussing which last we should choose for our new spectator design and we thought that this would be a good way of illustrating this Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-54824932366178876332014-10-24T07:41:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.491-08:00Courses on film and St Crispin's DayThe autumn course finished in a flurry of activity as the guys took on Finishing, the most important part of shoe making, once you've actually mastered making a shoe.Here's the task that faced them on Friday morning...To add extra urgency to the course, the students had kindly agreed to be filmed for an article and a series of short films on craft in the latest issue of Creative Review magazine (Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-58062442432931712492014-10-17T02:17:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.497-08:00TreesOnce again, we welcome you, new readers and old, to our shoemaking blog.This last two weeks has seen us teaching our October Intensive Shoemaking Course. Today is the penultimate day and the students are rasping their heels, so good progress has been made.Being popular and well known shoemakers (in our own heads, at least), we occasionally get given the odd bit of shoemaking kit. And a few weeks Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-5072937907338508782014-10-10T03:27:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.485-08:00Strength of a shoemakerWe're delighted to say that the work at No.1 Savile Row is finally finished, the store is fully open and looking resplendent. It is masculine, warm and very welcoming with flagstones, glass and oak displays and strong, graphite walls...the perfect complement to Gieves' autumn Highland collection.Inspired by our new surroundings, we've developed a capsule collection of new bespoke samples Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-15296458406984294632014-10-03T01:10:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.421-08:00A CelebrationWelcome back once more, dear readers, to your window onto our world. A world of craftsmanship, creativity, passion and hard work. With a simple target - handsome shoes for satisfied customers. Sounds simple anyway, and in some ways, it is. A clear goal to work to, but, in our ten years in business, we have learned that the goal is not a static point at which you arrive, but rather movable point Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-15258388076396081252014-09-26T08:16:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.418-08:00A Good Break This week has been a busy one of fittings and adjustments for a client with enlarged big toe joints and a nerve problem in his right foot, but not his left. This means that both lasts have prominent fittings to accommodate the joints and the right shoe needs to be wider than the left at the vamp to ensure that the toes are not cramped.Naturally the shoes still need to look like a pair, so we haveAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-10950052021147339302014-09-18T15:06:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.399-08:00An ExperimentWelcome back once more, dear readers, to the wonderful world of bespoke shoes. Aren't we lucky to have found such an absorbing trade? We hope you have had a productive week and have had your hands on some oak bark pit tanned cow hide - a treat for anyone, if only they knew!We have been working to prepare a travelling exhibition which will feature two of our shoes and some assorted tools, leathersAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-66382856734835183212014-09-12T02:59:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.516-08:00New course dates for 2015 - Shoe Making and Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes We've settled back into the routine of shoe making after our various summer forays and have now had a chance to plan the courses for next year, 2015. All of our London courses are based in central London at Cockpit Arts in historic Bloomsbury, within easy reach of the capital's outskirts via bus and underground services and the mainline train stations at Waterloo, Kings Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-17089263220162773242014-09-05T06:08:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.436-08:00Bakers of Colyton - Part 2This is the second part of our photo diary from J & FJ Baker of Colyton. This time we will take you through the various aspects of the tanning process from the oak bark to the hides arriving to the dressing and sorting.Traditionally all leather in England was oak bark tanned because of the ready supply of oak, with a tannery in every village and a ready supply of local cattle. In Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-33304305012301716532014-08-29T02:00:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.458-08:00Bakers of Colyton 1Back from a lovely week in Sark and with Mr Ducker relaxing in the Peak District we wanted to share our recent trip to Baker's of Colyton...a trip that has been far too long in the offing. Anyway, we finally made it by train and then local bus to Colyton for some Devon sunshine, hospitality and surroundings that even my camera phone makes look idyllic.The buildings may vary in age but FarrowAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-72937791795468370862014-08-21T02:47:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.527-08:00Some New Shoes August 2015Hi guys, it's been a tiring August with teaching our Intensive Shoemaking Course - we are getting old! We hope you enjoyed watching the students progress. Has it inspired any of you to give it a go? We have another Intensive starting in October and a weekly class which takes place on a Monday night from 6 - 9 pm in ten week terms. Details are on our websiteI am on my own this week with Madame Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-73816309016097163922014-08-18T02:08:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.530-08:00Carreducker Intensive Shoemaking Course August 2014 Days 10, 11 and 12And so our brave students started the final push to the summit of their shoe making mountain. With the heels built, they were ready for finishing.Here are their finishing packs complete with rasps, sanding blocks and various grades of aluminium oxide paper.Heavy rasping was followed by glassing and then the 3 kinds of paper until a smooth, blemish free finish was achieved on both the heels and Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-41294903936564168662014-08-13T10:29:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.470-08:00Carreducker Intensive Shoemaking Course August 14 - Days 7, 8 and 9And so we move into the second week and our intrepid students have finished the welting and moved onto the soles. Their shoes are really looking like shoes now!Monday saw them finish any welting not done on the rest day and get their shanks and cork filler in.After shaping the shanks and cork to achieve a gently domed surface, the students trimmed their welts in preparation for attaching the Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-14767966914615451132014-08-09T10:29:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.413-08:00Carreducker Intensive Shoe Making course; August 2014 Days 4 - 6The students are a lovely bunch but gradually the task ahead is dawning on them. Energy levels are already suffering and so is concentration. Sometimes however many times you say something it just won't go in!Lasting linings and toe puffs Making threads ready for weltingThreads twisted and waxed ready for weltingThe Zen of welting - calmly, quietly getting on with itConcentration...and Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-51453647264990464342014-08-06T10:13:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.488-08:00Carréducker Intensive Shoemaking Course, August 2014, Days 1, 2, and 3Welcome back, dear readers. These courses are coming thick and fast. Hot on the heels of our very successful Pattern Making Course for bespoke shoemaking, comes our well established Intensive Shoemaking Course. Two weeks of blood (ocasionally), sweat (often) and tears (not in public, at least).This year we have students from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Portugal, the USA and England. Unusually, we have Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-45050586575821314922014-08-02T00:32:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.482-08:00Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes London - Day 5 (last day)The last day of the Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course and the students worked hard to complete their Derby linings by the end of the day.The secret to well fitting linings? Slotting...making small slits in the pattern to allow the layers of leather to sit and to be stitched smoothly together.The following sequence shows a student slotting the lining pattern for a Derby brogue in orderAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-68705327066630250392014-08-01T01:35:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.519-08:00Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 4 - August 2014Day 4 of the Carréducker Pattern Making Course for bespoke shoes saw the students complete the lining pieces for the Oxford they were doing yesterday and check that they fit the last well.Once the Oxford was finished, they moved on to the final style to be covered this week, the Derby.The same procedures were followed with taping the last followed by drawing the style; making the forme; meanAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-27985294565599043632014-07-30T10:18:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.449-08:00Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 3 - August 2014The midway point is here. How quickly a week flies by.This morning started with our students flattening the forme of the Oxford they are working on.This was followed by making the master standard and then the sectional or pattern pieces, including the overlays and underlays (allowances).They then put the pieces together and checked how they fitted on the last.Now this may sound straightforward Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-10275744484283187642014-07-29T10:32:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.396-08:00Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 2 - August 2014And so to day two of the Carréducker Pattern Making Course 2014.Our Beautiful Sunny ClassroomThis morning saw our students finish the linng pattern pieces for the court shoe they started yesterday.The Lining Pieces Of The Court ShoeAs a side project, they then designed a slipper which is very similar to a court shoe. If there is time at the end, they will cut the pattern pieces.A discussion aboutAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-15536329143277374492014-07-28T14:49:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.427-08:00Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course - London Day 1 - August 2014The Education Space all set up and ready for this summer's Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course.What a lovely start to the course, welcoming old friends from previous courses and new shoe enthusiasts who will be taking on the intensive shoe making challenge next week and in October.It was a busy first day. Fiona first took the group through the various parts of the last - looking at the Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-89473641179795480762014-07-25T01:00:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.546-08:00Breaking GlassBroken glass is usually a bad thing, but when it comes to shoe making a well broken piece of glass can be the making of a smooth sole edge, sole or heel. It is a vital part of finishing. Whilst rasping the edges blends the layers of leather together to make one surface, glassing then smooths that surface, before sanding with the differing grades of sandpaper.Picture frame glass is ideal - Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-61384473862620309002014-07-18T03:35:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.507-08:00Finishing with a difference - part 2 - painting and decoratingLast week I was back at square one after taking off my first attempt at the heel. With the heels finally rebuilt in heel lift this time, I finished the heels and sole edges as usual - rasped, glassed and sanded - but concentrated on rounding the sole edges...leaving the top edge with a prominent lip and the bottom edge squared off.I used a mix of dark brown and black edge dye and then rubbed darkAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-72485028194625323142014-07-11T04:01:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.524-08:00Finishing - with a difference - bumped, rounded and coloured! This week everything I have ever learned about shoemaking has been stood on its head as I took on the challenge of replicating a particular finish on a customer's boots. The customer is very keen that they should be as close a replica as possible and everything about these boots totally goes against the norm. (I know, I know - what were we thinking!) Anyway, where sole edges should be sharp and Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789613521894563136.post-74660005391850709772014-07-04T11:41:00.000-07:002014-11-13T22:19:48.533-08:00Making threadsHand twisted hemp threads are either the delight or bane of a shoemaker's life depending on whether they are 'behaving' or not. How they behave is down to a great many factors - not least warm hands, technique pulling them through or the weather! The one thing we can help you with is how to make them. We use twisted, waxed hemp because it is strong to stitch with and forms a 'plug' in the Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12916694070858773682noreply@blogger.com